This post describes: Extending the door bell in my home so it can be heard in the house extension and shed. It’s been done by incorporating wireless technology, while retaining my original 1980s “DING-DONG” door chime which had a great sound and an illuminated bell push.
928 – Fatal PCIe error. PCIe error detected Slot 2 Surprise link down error.
All the errors pointed to either a Slot 2 problem or a problem with my NVIDIA GeForce GTS240 Display Adapter in that slot. I hoped the problem (which is intermittent and very occasional) would go away if I reseated the Display Adapter in its PCIe card slot.
This article describes what I did next and how I ended up lubricating the heat sink fan.
Unfortunately besides my Dualit Milk Frother requiring a repair (see How I Repaired A Dualit Milk Frother Model DMF2) another problem has developed. I have to ask, “Is my Dualit Milk Frother corroding?” If not what is happening to it. Is the brown mark I can see copper or rust?
My wife pressed the start button on the Dualit Milk Frother (Model DMF2) one day in the summer of 2017 and it no longer worked. This persisted so we had to heat the milk in the microwave oven for a week or two until we got a new frother.
Of course, me being me, I dismantled the faulty Dualit Milk Frother to see if there was an obvious problem. There wasn’t anything burnt out or blackened. Just a lot of wiring in a very confined space. It was constructed with a flat straight circuit board fitted into a curved space. No-one had used flexible circuit boards here.
The long term solution was to replace the whole Dualit Milk Frother. Since they are still on the market that’s what I chose to do. The faulty one had been a replacement for our Nespresso Aeroccino Milk Frother already mentioned in this blog. We now had to replace the replacement.
The initial purpose of this post is to raise awareness of a UK 13 Amp Mains Extension Cable Safety Issue. I came across it by chance when I landed on the PlugSafe site. I’ve taken the liberty of reproducing their information below and enhancing their picture. Full credit to PlugSafe for making us all aware.
As a consequence of a comment on the initial post I have also included an issue with the safety of 13 Amp Mains Plugs too.
This post describes how to make a condensation free bathroom mirror using an automatic mirror heater. See the one I made in 2007 here. Look carefully and you will notice the condensation around the edge but not in the central heated area.
Without a heater it would be impossible to use the mirror without first wiping it with a towel. Cold mirrors usually mist over again after wiping.
With an active mirror heater it’s possible to get straight out of a bath or shower and use the mirror immediately.
We are all trying to reduce energy costs and CO2 emissions by choosing modern alternatives to incandescent lamps. Here are some lighting charts to help you select the best lamp for your situation. Since the decline of incandescent lamps there have been many alternatives made available based on fluorescent tubes bent in many ways to condense a long tube into a confined space.
I had my first Philips SL prismatic Compact Fluorescent Lamp (CFL) lamps soon after they came on the general market back in the 1980’s. I only recently sent my last one to recycling after deciding that even my shed could do better than have one of those long time warm-up devices.
In the early days of low energy lighting there was nothing better than the good old fluorescent tube, usually confined to kitchens and garages in the British house. I still had two twin fluorescents in my kitchen until 2015. If you want the room lit without shadows that’s the way to do it. After much searching in 2003 I found some streamlined fluorescents fit for the modern era to replace my old fluorescent ‘chunky boxes’. Unfortunately they went off the market and I struggled to find a decent looking replacement that didn’t cost a fortune. There were some problems with the ones I used. They had a self destruct mechanism built-in. The plastic fixings for holding the wires in place on the frame all deteriorated under the ultraviolet light given out by fluorescent tubes. I replaced them with zip ties but they suffered from the same problem.
To get back to the point of this article, which is to advise on the brightness of replacement lamps, I have chosen to publish a chart by espares which seems to relate to the UK/European market and another by ovo energy which relates to the American market and appears to suggest their lamps emit more light than European lamps, e.g. UK/European 100W ≅ 1300 lumens, American 100W ≅ 1600 lumens (see A USA Lighting Chart).
I listened to the BBC Radio 2 Jeremy Vine show on 23rd June and heard a great article about a young woman who had been given a bionic prosthetic hand for the 21st century. Her name is Nicky Ashwell and here she is in the following video tweet being interviewed by Jeremy Vine who went on to receive this handshake.
This article advises how I have replaced a Mira Shower thermal switch in a MIRA Sport 9kW Thermostatic Shower on several occasions.
Originally I installed a MIRA Sport 9kW Thermostatic Shower as part of a new bathroom and had it tested and certified by a qualified electrician on 1st May 2007. I was very pleased with it and it worked well for three years until June 2010 when it developed a fault.
I found that in the middle of taking a shower the water would go cold for a few seconds and then get warm again. On the first few occasions I wondered if cold water being drawn off by other taps and appliances was lowering the water pressure to the shower and so causing it to operate incorrectly (although the low pressure light was not illuminating). As the days went by the problem got worse and my wife ended up washing shampoo off with cold water. I knew then that I would be in bad books until it was fixed.
I had to determine if this fault could be fixed or if I would have to replace the entire shower unit. For this I needed to take a look inside the shower unit.