We are all trying to reduce energy costs and CO2 emissions by choosing modern alternatives to incandescent lamps. Here are some lighting charts to help you select the best lamp for your situation. Since the decline of incandescent lamps there have been many alternatives made available based on fluorescent tubes bent in many ways to condense a long tube into a confined space.
I had my first Philips SL prismatic Compact Fluorescent Lamp (CFL) lamps soon after they came on the general market back in the 1980’s. I only recently sent my last one to recycling after deciding that even my shed could do better than have one of those long time warm-up devices.
In the early days of low energy lighting there was nothing better than the good old fluorescent tube, usually confined to kitchens and garages in the British house. I still had two twin fluorescents in my kitchen until 2015. If you want the room lit without shadows that’s the way to do it. After much searching in 2003 I found some streamlined fluorescents fit for the modern era to replace my old fluorescent ‘chunky boxes’. Unfortunately they went off the market and I struggled to find a decent looking replacement that didn’t cost a fortune. There were some problems with the ones I used. They had a self destruct mechanism built-in. The plastic fixings for holding the wires in place on the frame all deteriorated under the ultraviolet light given out by fluorescent tubes. I replaced them with zip ties but they suffered from the same problem.
To get back to the point of this article, which is to advise on the brightness of replacement lamps, I have chosen to publish a chart by which seems to relate to the UK/European market and another by which relates to the American market and appears to suggest their lamps emit more light than European lamps, e.g. UK/European 100W ≅ 1300 lumens, American 100W ≅ 1600 lumens (see A USA Lighting Chart). Continue reading “Lighting Charts – Which Lamp Do I Need?”
This post gives a detailed description, with photos and reference to a Parts Diagram, of how to replace a Dyson Slim DC18 Undercarriage. The Undercarriage would require changing if part of it broke since parts cannot be obtained individually. I changed mine when the Air Input Changeover Valve Actuator broke.
“Since I first published this article, in February 2013, I have had plenty of feedback from readers and I have gleaned information from statistical data which has encouraged me to improve it. So if you came here soon after I published it you should find better information now.” — Helpful Colin
It can be very expensive to pay someone for removing a bra wire from a washing machine.
What Usually Happens
The wire normally gets caught under the heating element which is situated at the bottom, between the inner drum (the one you can see through the door with all the holes) and the outer drum which surrounds it and holds the water. The wire can lie dormant and not touch the inner drum, but if you know it’s in there then that’s worrying.
It can catch on the holes of the drum in such a way that it sticks through one, in which case you can probably grab it with your pliers and pull it out. If it pops through a hole while it is whizzing around it could do serious damage to the parts it is caught on, between the drums, or it could puncture the hose connecting the outer drum to the pump.