This post describes the methods used to prevent steel rusting on the frame of my car port. I used two part epoxy resin paint when I repainted rusty sections after 19 years. Continue reading “Preventing Steel Rusting on My Carport”
This post refers specifically to downpipes with a square cross section. It shows how to modify a rainwater downpipe spout (shoe) to stop a dripping noise when the drip starts within the outlet shoe. For drips that drop off the guttering outlet and fall all the way down to the bottom of a straight downpipe and hit the shoe you may get immediate relief from the noise by removing the shoe and letting the drip fall on the ground, roof or whatever is below the downpipe. In the long term this may cause excessive splashing under heavy rain which could cause damage to foundations or brickwork mortar, because the water is not directed away from the building. The drip needs to be guided to the side of the downpipe so it will run down the pipe and only tend to drip at the bottom where it can be dealt with by the method described here. Any method devised must not prevent leaves and dirt from being washed all the way down the pipe or a blockage will ensue.
Employees Pose Security Risks To Businesses
Trend Micro says employees pose security risks to businesses by their carelessness. So don’t allow access to your business data through your employees. Data is exposed by Wi-Fi hijacking and by employees losing mobile devices.
See this publication in PC Pro by: Darien Graham-Smith posted on 20 Nov 2013 at 08:03. Read it here.
Drag-n-Drop Context Menu Discovered After Nearly Losing Files
After many years I have just found that there is a specific Drag-n-Drop Context Menu, in Microsoft Windows 7 at least. For much of that time I avoided Drag-n-Drop in favour of Copy and Paste. This discovery came about after I found I was Moving files out of folders accidentally, by using Drag-n-Drop, when all I wanted to do was copy them to other folders. This resulted in me nearly losing some files by moving them out of their original folders. Continue reading “Drag-n-Drop Context Menu in Windows 7”
This post describes a method for DIY readers to make and mount bespoke wooden Bed Headboard Wall Fixings, to my design, so that no bolts are visible and so the headboard can be removed by just lifting it vertically to allow for cleaning or horizontal adjustment. It gives a specific example. Other headboards will be different, but I hope anyone wanting to use this fixing method can work out how to do it with their headboard. I’m open to questions – just use the comment process.
Headboards are usually mounted on beds using parts supplied by the manufacturer but sometimes it’s best to mount them on the wall instead. The manufacturer’s wooden stalks and fixing bolts often protrude behind the bed. When the bed is pushed against the wall they can scratch the wallpaper and skirting board. They take up space and keep the bed away from the wall so that in a small room the space between the foot of the bed and the next object (furniture or wall) is too small. Without a headboard attached a bed can often be pushed up to the wall by another 20mm to 50mm and many headboards can then be mounted on the wall above the mattress level. Be aware that with a headboard mounted on the wall and the bed pushed up to the wall underneath it the length of bed available for sleeping may be reduced by 20mm to 50mm.
This post is about the Ring Automotive Air Compressor RAC900 which is an excellent pump for inflating anything with a Schrader valve, (e.g. car tyres, bicycle tyres, etc.) or balls, airbeds, etc. (3 attachments are supplied). It has to be powered by a 12 volt (30 amp peak) supply such as a car battery (not provided). So to use it with a car the bonnet must be opened and the battery cover removed to expose the battery terminals for connection. I don’t think it would be safe to connect it to a cigar lighter socket. It does come with an inline 30 amp fuse.
A few weeks ago I passed a friend in the street who was inflating his car tyres on his driveway with a Ring Automotive Air Compressor RAC900. He was very eager to show me his new tyre pump which was powered from his car battery. He explained how it had the following advantages over other tyre pumps:
It inflated tyres very quickly.
- It had a built-in pressure gauge.
It was very well-engineered.
- It came with a long yellow curly plastic pipe to reach all tyres on a car.
It was very quiet compared to other 12 volt air compressors I have heard.
It was Made in England, Leeds in fact.
I have wanted a way to get a reduced windows 7 startup time for a while. I was concerned about the time it took from switch on to the point where all apps that start automatically were ready for use. This has generally increased over the years during the time I had previous versions of Windows and on into the time I have had Windows 7.
There are those who would say I have too many apps starting. Well I didn’t buy a cheap computer and that’s what computers are for. To have apps running that a person can use at any time without much notice.
How I Reduced Windows 7 Startup Time
In the hope I would get reduced Windows 7 startup time I bought a Crucial Adrenaline solid state cache in 2012. It was controlled by NVELO Dataplex v188.8.131.52. I questioned how good it was because it still took a long time to start. However if I left it for a while after starting Windows, prior to logging on to my desktop, there was a noticeable improvement on the start-up time for the multitude of programs that loaded after log-on. So I continued to use it.
Yesterday (6th March 2013) I was notified by NVELO of a new version of Dataplex v184.108.40.206. I followed the process carefully to perform the upgrade. After the upgrade, and following restart, there was a very long startup time (5mins or more) while the cache was sorted out. Everything was OK but I didn’t restart again that day.
Today (7th March 2013) I started and the logon screen appeared after 1min 25secs. I logged on by 1min 30secs and my extensive range of icons, toolbars and gadgets had all loaded within 2mins from switch on. It took at least 4mins before. There must have been a problem with the previous version. I don’t think it’s wholly due to the improvements in the new version.
My Old Casio Databank Watch
I bought this Casio Databank Watch (ABOVE or LEFT) in 1995 and although it has had several batteries and replacement straps it has lasted 18 years until this week when I noticed the digits had all gone off.
A week before I noticed it had reset to a date in 1990. I don’t know why. I altered the date and time to correct it then, but now when I take out the battery and put it back the illuminating light stays on and some peculiar digits display or I get no digits.
There is an AC (All Clear) button inside but operating it has little effect. This is something I have noticed before when I have changed the battery but I have usually got it to reset. This time it is proving really awkward and I feel it is time to change it for a new one.
This is the second model I had. The first had a real bulb in it to light it up. and was bought right back in the 1970’s and lasted until I got the second model. The second model had an electroluminescent back-light that glowed green.
When they first came out it was suggested they might not last for many years but in fact it has lasted all this time and outlasted the electronics of the watch.
Maybe it has succumbed to a Tin Whisker somewhere.
My New Casio Databank Watch
I have now bought a replacement Casio Databank Watch (ABOVE or LEFT). This is available from: Timeshop4You.
These watches are available in slightly different models and from other shops. See Google’s list here.
So far I am happy with it although it has an amber coloured LED back-light. This emanates from the bottom left corner. It’s reminiscent of the old pea grain filament bulb that I had in my very first Databank watch.
The electroluminescent type in the second model gave a very even green glow which I preferred
This post contains instructions on how to avoid spilling juice from cartons or Tetra Paks®, with a rectangular cross-section, while opening or lifting them. It’s quite natural to grip cartons by the easiest method (the broad sides) while opening them, or lifting them when they’re still full, causing the contents to pour or squirt out inadvertently. Cartons with a square cross section are indifferent to the sides that are gripped when lifting or pouring.
You go to the refrigerator and take out a new cool carton of juice. You hold it firmly and take off the seal and juice spurts out at you and runs down the side of the carton, or you pick it up after removing the seal and juice pours out as you grip it. Before you’ve got it in a glass you’re in a mess. This is usually caused by the way you grip the carton. Continue reading “Spilling Juice From Cartons or ‘Tetra Paks®’”